Ramlila: The Living Theatre of the Ramayana

In the evenings before Dussehra, open grounds in many northern Indian towns fill with families. Lamps are lit, a conch sounds, and the story of Rama begins again. Ramlila, literally "the play of Rama", is a folk theatre tradition in which episodes from the Ramayana are performed over several days, usually ten or more, ending on Vijayadashami.

Where the story comes from

Most Ramlilas are based on the Ramcharitmanas, the sixteenth-century retelling of the epic in the Awadhi language by the poet Tulsidas. The older Sanskrit Ramayana is attributed to Valmiki. Because Tulsidas's verses are widely known and sung, audiences often join in when the performers recite them. A short overview of the plot is in The Ramayana in brief.

How a Ramlila is staged

Performances differ, but common features include:

• Young performers: boys or young men often play Rama, Lakshmana and Sita, and are treated with reverence during the run.
• Narration and singing: a chorus sings or recites verses of the Ramcharitmanas between the dialogues.
• Open spaces: stages may be permanent, but in many towns different locations stand in for Ayodhya, the forest and Lanka.
• Community effort: local committees, craftspeople and families contribute costumes, masks and sets.

Ramnagar, Varanasi, and recognition

The Ramlila of Ramnagar near Varanasi dates back to the early nineteenth century and is held over about a month. The audience moves from one location to another, following the story across the town. In 2008 UNESCO listed the Ramlila, the traditional performance of the Ramayana, as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

From story to spectacle

The last evening typically brings the Ravana Dahan. Effigies of Ravana, Kumbhakarna and Meghnad are set alight, often to cheers and fireworks. Many Ramlila committees now use smaller, eco-friendly effigies, and some use the occasion for talks about environmental care and local heritage.

Seeing one yourself

If you are in a north Indian town in the nine days before Dussehra, ask locally for the nearest Ramlila. Arrive early, bring a mat or cushion, and keep phones silent during the key scenes. Regional versions in Bengal, Karnataka and Kerala include local dance and drama forms, which you can read about in Dussehra traditions around India.